How to Handle Your Own Honda Goldwing Oil Change

Getting a honda goldwing oil change finished in your own garage is a great way to save a bit of cash while getting to know your bike better. If you've spent any time on a Goldwing, you know it's basically a luxury car on two wheels, and just like a high-end car, it needs regular maintenance to keep that legendary engine purring. You don't need to be a master mechanic to pull this off, though it might feel a bit intimidating the first time you look at all that plastic fairing.

I've always found that doing my own maintenance is a bit of a bonding experience with the machine. Plus, let's be honest, shop rates are getting pretty wild these days. Taking an hour or so on a Saturday morning to do it yourself means more money for gas and road trips. So, grab a coffee, put on some music, and let's get into the nitty-gritty of keeping your Wing in top shape.

Gathering Your Supplies Before You Start

There is nothing worse than being halfway through a honda goldwing oil change and realizing you don't have a new crush washer or you're a quart short on oil. Before you even touch a wrench, make sure you've got everything laid out on your workbench.

First off, you're going to need the oil. Most modern Wings take a 10W-30 or 10W-40 motorcycle-specific oil. Check your owner's manual because the year of your bike matters. Don't just throw automotive oil in there; motorcycles have wet clutches, and car oil has friction modifiers that can make your clutch slip. That's a headache you definitely don't want.

You'll also need a quality oil filter. Some guys swear by the OEM Honda filters, while others like aftermarket brands like K&N or HiFlo. It's mostly personal preference, but don't cheap out here. You also must have a new crush washer for the drain plug. They're dirt cheap, and they prevent those annoying little oil drips on your garage floor.

As for tools, a basic socket set, an oil filter wrench (the cup-style ones usually work best for the tight spaces on a Wing), and a sturdy drain pan are essential. A funnel is also a must unless you have incredibly steady hands and don't mind cleaning up a mess.

Prepping the Bike

Before you start unscrewing things, you want the oil to be warm. I usually take the bike for a quick ten-minute ride around the neighborhood. Warm oil flows much faster and carries out more of the gunk and contaminants that settle at the bottom of the engine.

Once you get back, park the bike on a level surface. Using the center stand is the way to go here. It keeps the bike stable and ensures you get an accurate reading when you check the levels later. Just be careful—the engine and the exhaust pipes are going to be hot. I can't tell you how many times I've accidentally barked my knuckles against a hot header pipe. It's not fun.

If you have a newer model, you might need to pop off a piece of the lower fairing to get clear access to the filter and drain plug. On older generations, it's a bit more exposed. Just take your time with the plastic clips; they can be brittle, especially if your bike has seen a few winters.

Draining the Old Oil

Now comes the "dirty" part of the honda goldwing oil change. Slide your drain pan under the engine and locate the drain bolt. It's usually pretty easy to find, but it can be tucked away a bit. Give it a nudge with your socket wrench. Once it's loose, I like to unscrew it the rest of the way by hand.

Here's a pro tip: keep a little bit of upward pressure on the bolt as you unscrew it. When you feel the threads end, pull it away quickly. This usually keeps your hands mostly clean, though you'll probably still get a few drops on your fingers. Let that oil drain for a good ten or fifteen minutes. While it's dripping, take a look at the old oil. It should be dark, but if you see shiny metallic flakes or if it looks like chocolate milk, you might have bigger issues to look into.

While the oil is draining, take the old crush washer off the drain bolt. Sometimes they get squashed on there pretty good and you might need a flathead screwdriver to pop it off. Put the new one on and wipe the bolt clean.

Swapping the Filter

Once the dripping has slowed down to a crawl, it's time for the filter. On a Goldwing, the filter is usually tucked in a spot that makes it just a little bit annoying to get to. This is where that cup-style filter wrench comes in handy.

Loosen the filter and be prepared for more oil to come out. There's always a little bit trapped in the filter and the housing. I usually tuck some old rags or some cardboard under the filter area to catch the runoff so it doesn't coat the frame or the exhaust.

Before you spin the new filter on, take a finger and dab a little bit of fresh oil onto the rubber gasket. This helps it seal properly and makes it much easier to get off the next time you do a honda goldwing oil change. Screw it on by hand until it's snug, then give it maybe another quarter or half turn with the wrench. Don't go crazy tightening it; you're not trying to weld it to the engine.

The DCT Factor

If you're riding one of the newer Goldwings with the Dual Clutch Transmission (DCT), your honda goldwing oil change involves one extra step. There is a separate DCT oil filter that needs to be replaced.

It's a smaller, cartridge-style filter located behind a little cover on the side of the engine. You'll just need to pop that cover off, swap the filter (paying attention to which way the spring faces!), and put the cover back on. If you forget this part, you're only doing half the job. The DCT system relies on clean oil to shift smoothly, so skipping this filter can lead to clunky gear changes down the road.

Filling It Back Up

Now that the drain plug is back in (with its new washer!) and the filter is tight, it's time to add the fresh stuff. Double-check your manual for the exact capacity. It usually takes around 4 quarts, but it varies slightly depending on whether you changed the filter and whether you have a DCT model.

Pour the oil in slowly. Once you've added the recommended amount, put the fill cap back on and start the engine. Let it idle for a minute or two. This circulates the oil through the new filter and gets everything pressurized.

Shut it down and let it sit for a few minutes so the oil can settle back into the pan. Now, check the dipstick or the sight glass. You want the level to be right between the marks. If it's low, add a tiny bit more. It's much easier to add a little oil than it is to drain some out because you overfilled it.

Finishing Touches and Cleanup

The last step of a successful honda goldwing oil change is a quick inspection. Look under the bike with a flashlight. Are there any leaks around the drain plug or the filter? If everything looks dry, you're good to go.

Wipe down any oil that might have dripped onto the exhaust or the fairings. If you leave oil on the exhaust, it's going to smoke and smell terrible the next time you ride, which can be pretty alarming if you aren't expecting it.

Finally, make sure you dispose of your old oil properly. Most auto parts stores will take it for free. Don't be that person who pours it down the drain or tosses it in the trash.

Doing your own maintenance is pretty rewarding. Every time you're out on the highway and you feel how smooth that flat-six engine is, you'll know it's because you took the time to do the job right. It's one of the simplest things you can do to ensure your Wing stays on the road for a few hundred thousand miles. Happy riding!